Van Flooring Options
Everything you need to know about choosing and installing flooring in your campervan — from subfloor insulation to the final finish.
Flooring Options Compared
£15 – £40 per m² · Light (3–5 kg/m²) · Best for: Most campervan builds — the all-rounder
Click-lock luxury vinyl tile planks that mimic the look of real wood. The most popular choice for campervan conversions due to their durability, water resistance, and ease of installation.
Pros
- Waterproof — perfect for van life
- Easy click-lock installation
- Individual planks replaceable if damaged
- Realistic wood-look finish
- Comfortable underfoot
- Good range of styles and colours
- Relatively lightweight
Cons
- Can expand/contract with temperature
- Needs 5mm expansion gap around edges
- Cheap versions can feel flimsy
- Not as warm as real wood
- Can be slippery when wet
£8 – £25 per m² · Very light (2–3 kg/m²) · Best for: Budget builds, wet areas, and practical conversions
A single continuous sheet of vinyl flooring that covers the entire floor. Very practical and waterproof, though harder to achieve a premium finish.
Pros
- Completely waterproof — no seams to leak
- Very easy to clean
- Lightweight
- Cheap and widely available
- Can be glued or loose-laid
- No expansion gaps needed
Cons
- Harder to get a neat finish around curves
- Can look less premium than plank
- Difficult to replace if damaged
- Can wrinkle or bubble over time
- Limited design options compared to LVT
£20 – £50 per m² · Medium (4–7 kg/m²) · Best for: Adventure vans, dog-friendly builds, utility conversions
Industrial-grade rubber tiles or rolls commonly used in gyms and workshops. Extremely durable and slip-resistant.
Pros
- Extremely durable and hard-wearing
- Excellent grip — even when wet
- Sound-dampening properties
- Easy to clean
- Available in interlocking tiles
- Good for adventure/utility vans
Cons
- Industrial appearance — not for everyone
- Can have a rubber smell initially
- Limited colour/style options
- Heavier than vinyl
- Can be expensive for quality options
£10 – £30 per m² · Medium (5–8 kg/m²) · Best for: Dry areas only — not recommended for most van builds
Traditional click-lock laminate with an MDF/HDF core and decorative top layer. Looks great but has significant drawbacks in a van environment.
Pros
- Attractive wood-look finish
- Easy click-lock installation
- Affordable
- Wide range of styles
- Comfortable underfoot
Cons
- NOT waterproof — swells when wet
- MDF core absorbs moisture
- Heavier than vinyl plank
- Can warp in temperature extremes
- Not recommended for wet areas
£10 – £25 per m² (including sealant) · Light (3–5 kg/m²) · Best for: Minimalist builds, weight-conscious conversions, budget builds
Marine or birch plywood sealed with varnish, paint, or epoxy. A simple, lightweight option that gives a raw, natural aesthetic.
Pros
- Very lightweight
- Can be custom-cut to any shape
- Natural, minimalist aesthetic
- Easy to repair or refinish
- Good structural base
- Affordable
Cons
- Requires proper sealing to be waterproof
- Can look basic without finishing
- Needs regular maintenance
- Not as comfortable underfoot
- Splinters if not properly sanded
The Subfloor Sandwich
A proper campervan floor is built up in layers, each serving a specific purpose. Here's the standard "floor sandwich" from bottom to top:
Van floor (bare metal)
Clean, treat any rust, and apply rust inhibitor
Sound deadening (optional)
Dynamat, Dodo Mat, or similar butyl-based product on the flat areas
Insulation
Closed-cell foam (Celotex, Kingspan, or XPS board)
Vapour barrier
DPM (damp proof membrane) or Thermawrap
Plywood subfloor
Marine ply or birch ply screwed to the van floor battens
Final floor covering
Your chosen flooring material (vinyl plank, sheet vinyl, etc.)
Installation — Step by Step
Prepare the Van Floor
Strip the van floor completely. Remove any existing floor covering, ply, and fixings. Clean the bare metal thoroughly and treat any rust spots with rust converter and primer.
- Use a wire brush attachment on a drill for rust removal
- Apply Bilt Hamber Deox C or Jenolite rust converter
- Let rust treatment dry fully before proceeding (24 hours)
Apply Sound Deadening (Optional)
Apply butyl-based sound deadening to the flat areas of the floor. This reduces road noise and vibration. You don't need to cover 100% — 60-70% coverage is effective.
- Use a roller to press the material firmly onto the metal
- Focus on flat areas — skip the ribs and corrugations
- Dodo Mat and Dynamat are popular UK brands
Install Floor Insulation
Cut closed-cell insulation board to fit between the floor ribs. Use 10-25mm thickness depending on your headroom. Fill gaps with expanding foam or smaller offcuts.
- Celotex or Kingspan PIR board works well
- Cut slightly oversized for a friction fit
- Fill all gaps with expanding foam, then trim flush
Lay the Vapour Barrier
Cover the insulation with a vapour barrier (DPM or Thermawrap) to prevent moisture reaching the insulation from above. Tape all joins with foil tape.
- Overlap sheets by at least 100mm
- Tape all joins and edges with foil tape
- This step is crucial for preventing condensation issues
Install the Plywood Subfloor
Cut 9-12mm marine or birch plywood to fit the van floor. Screw through into the van floor ribs using self-tapping screws. This creates a solid, level base for your final flooring.
- Use a cardboard template for complex shapes
- Pre-drill screw holes to prevent splitting
- Countersink screws so they sit flush
- Leave a small gap around the edges for expansion
Lay Your Final Flooring
Install your chosen floor covering on top of the plywood subfloor. For vinyl plank, start from one wall and work across. For sheet vinyl, use a template first.
- Acclimatise vinyl plank for 24 hours in the van before fitting
- Leave 5mm expansion gap around all edges
- Use a pull bar for the last row of click-lock planks
- Cover expansion gaps with skirting or trim
Where to Buy
B&Q / Wickes
Vinyl plank, sheet vinyl, and laminate flooring. Good for seeing samples in person.
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